#111992  by hippieguy1954
 Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:03 pm
eric wrote:Thanks for the clarification! That's it hippie...buncha wankers over there on TGP!!!
You're welcome, eric. My pleasure anytime! :smile: :smile: :smile:
 #112536  by barefootdave
 Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:51 am
Woo hoo! Just scored these for $150 each on the bay with a 14 day money back guarantee. Seller says they are all original.

Now I am not quite sure how to check them out when they arrive next week to make sure they are all good. I will only have about 48 hrs at home between business trips to do the QC on them.

Do I just hook them up and play through them or is there more diligence to do?

 #112538  by hippieguy1954
 Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:24 am
I would check for "spreaker rub". If there is speaker rub, you will hear it after you install them. Makes a distorted type sound.

But you can (if you are careful) gently push the cone in just slightly..it will return on its own...(with all of your fingers on one hand spread and evenly spaced) and listen for any rubbing before you install them.

Besides that you're good to go unless you see something unusual.
:smile: :smile: :smile:
 #113025  by TI4-1009
 Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:39 am
Never hurts to put the ohmeter across the posts to make sure it's normal on resistance.
 #113030  by hippieguy1954
 Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:07 pm
TI4-1009 wrote:Never hurts to put the ohmeter across the posts to make sure it's normal on resistance.
+1 Good point! :smile: :smile: :smile:
 #113677  by tjvhaiko
 Wed May 09, 2012 7:28 am
In response to super glue post: Do NOT EVER use super glue on a dustcap!!!! You will destroy an expensive speaker, and E-120's are a finite bunch. I replaced aluminum dustcaps on JBL E-140's using "rubber resin cement" designed specifically for it, IT WORKS GREAT!!!! I was told it is the same stuff JBL uses, but who knows. Just do a search for it. The part number on the bottle is RS-3087. Don't know who makes it, but it IS what you need. Think I got a tube at a place called sound speaker repair.
 #116921  by hawk900
 Fri Aug 03, 2012 4:59 am
That makes complete sense. rubber resin can handle the constant flex of the cone. Igrabbed two more E's(total of three) and 3 more K's.
Check out the E''s never reconed but cones looks good.

Here's the add for the E's which I plan on fireing up all four with mc2300 and 3K's which I plan on firing up 3 K's with my mc2100

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... 600wt_1397

Let me know your all opinions. I hate internet purchases. Tip#1 for this forum= if cone dont spring back spoothly and resistance measurement. What's are the min's and lows in ohms????
 #116942  by mijknahs
 Fri Aug 03, 2012 11:45 am
DenverEd wrote:I am looking at these:


Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated.
If you can test them by having the guy crank some music through them pretty loud, that would be best. They look like they're in pretty good shape.
 #117189  by jerrys.kids
 Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:55 am
One important thing to do when you're looking at one before buying is to gently push the cone in and out, and listen for any rubbing sounds. If it's rubbing, it's the voice coil and it's toast. If it doesn't move in and out easily, or if it sticks, the magnet's been jarred out of alignment, and it's also toast. They are so expensive to recone you want to be very careful.

How much should the cone move in and out?