#162896  by waldo041
 Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:59 pm
MikeMcA wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:20 pm
JimijackJonez wrote:
Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:45 pm
it would go passive when the battery dies, yes?
You might think (I did) but no. When the battery dies the blaster dies. I discovered this quickly when the tester battery my tech left in the guitar expired about an hour after I got it home from the shop.

Remember to unplug the cable from your guitar when you're not playing to extend the battery life.
Well....technically this may be a false statement if you use the Stock Alembic Stratoblaster installation where the preamp comes after the volume control. The Blasters Bypass switch would then make the guitar passive when in bypass. If you remove the switch and leave the Preamp always IN the circuit, then you will not have the passive option. Same goes if you wire pre guitar volume control, then the Volume pot needs to change to keep the output impedance low.

Also, Note that any gain added to the blaster will only increase battery draw and decrease battery life. Stock with the trimpot all the way down is 3db gain out the gate, so it is draining batteries quick regardless.

~waldo
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 #162897  by GeneralGoldilocks
 Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:09 pm
Interesting points about battery life, Waldo, I was considering a blaster for my next build and did all kinds of research on buffers when I thought you were out of yours. It is interesting the Bartolini adjustable gain buffer, and maybe other adjustable gain buffers actually can increase their gain substantially by adding another 9v battery for 18v but I didn't know the increased gain drained the batteries faster. Battery life is important if you don't have a bypass switch! The bypass switch is a super nice feature of the Alembic Stratoblaster, as well as coming between volume and jack so you don't have to change your volume pot and can have a fully functional passive guitar if need be.
 #162898  by MikeMcA
 Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:11 pm
waldo041 wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:59 pm
Well....technically this may be a false statement if you use the Stock Alembic Stratoblaster installation where the preamp comes after the volume control. The Blasters Bypass switch would then make the guitar passive when in bypass. If you remove the switch and leave the Preamp always IN the circuit, then you will not have the passive option. Same goes if you wire pre guitar volume control, then the Volume pot needs to change to keep the output impedance low.
Huh. When mine died I checked the instructions, which say "Please note that even when the Blaster is bypassed, the battery is still on, so unplug the guitar when you are not using to get the longest life out of your battery." I interpreted that as meaning that the blaster required a live battery to function even when bypassed (and that is the case with mine currently). But from what you're saying it sounds like mine may actually have been installed improperly. Next time I change strings I will check the wiring. Thanks for the tip.
 #162899  by kurt eye
 Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:58 am
pablomago wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:42 am


Where can I get a couple of the trannys?
i'm guessing Las Vegas or maybe Amsterdam? :lol:
 #162902  by waldo041
 Sat Oct 13, 2018 6:30 am
MikeMcA wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:11 pm
waldo041 wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:59 pm
Well....technically this may be a false statement if you use the Stock Alembic Stratoblaster installation where the preamp comes after the volume control. The Blasters Bypass switch would then make the guitar passive when in bypass. If you remove the switch and leave the Preamp always IN the circuit, then you will not have the passive option. Same goes if you wire pre guitar volume control, then the Volume pot needs to change to keep the output impedance low.
Huh. When mine died I checked the instructions, which say "Please note that even when the Blaster is bypassed, the battery is still on, so unplug the guitar when you are not using to get the longest life out of your battery." I interpreted that as meaning that the blaster required a live battery to function even when bypassed (and that is the case with mine currently). But from what you're saying it sounds like mine may actually have been installed improperly. Next time I change strings I will check the wiring. Thanks for the tip.

A stock wired Alembic Stratoblaster has a bypass switch.

One side of the switch is active and when in that position the SB is IN the guitar circuit, it is ON which equals an ACTIVE output.

On the other side the SB switch the SB circuit is OUT of the guitar circuit, and the SB is OFF and equal to a PASSIVE output.

ON or OFF, IN or OUT as long as a cable is plugged into the guitars output the battery will be drawing because the circuit is still actually on and it is just bypassed and not active IN the circuit.

~waldo
 #163394  by pablomago
 Fri Nov 16, 2018 5:48 pm
kurt eye wrote:
Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:58 am
pablomago wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:42 am


Where can I get a couple of the trannys?
i'm guessing Las Vegas or maybe Amsterdam? :lol:

I'm sure there are some closer to home. ;-)

Uh... TRANSISTORS. :|
 #163428  by twofootskunk
 Sun Nov 18, 2018 12:58 pm
Hey Mike, have you seen those E230’s on eBay? I wonder if they are legit? I have several of those J230s from eBay that we got a while ago. Been happy with one of those in my guitar. They are supposed to be the same specs, right?
 #163431  by waldo041
 Sun Nov 18, 2018 4:34 pm
I have not bought any of those to test them, but they do appear to be legit from a legit U.S. seller.

Also, I wish i had the spec sheets's but that is something you can look for to verify, but I do recall only difference was the actual package.

~waldo
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 #163439  by lovetoboogie
 Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:00 am
I am the "legit" seller of the very "legit E230's. They are early 80's NOS from Siliconix. They were special order from Barcus Berry at the time. I stumbled upon them while looking for another opamp. I have maybe 30 left... Use them in all my Blaster builds...
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 #163440  by twofootskunk
 Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:26 pm
lovetoboogie wrote:
Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:00 am
I am the "legit" seller of the very "legit E230's. They are early 80's NOS from Siliconix. They were special order from Barcus Berry at the time. I stumbled upon them while looking for another opamp. I have maybe 30 left... Use them in all my Blaster builds...
Awesome! I ordered a couple.

Thanks!!
 #163442  by waldo041
 Tue Nov 20, 2018 2:40 pm
the pieces are coming back to me, i remember the ebay handle, but the rukind one through me off.

Wolf actually has an EMG JG1 or 2. The EMG founder was in the shop when Tiger was being built by Irwin.

Any Blaster action in Wolf happened when it was an Alembic Guitar, not in the breakout 89 or now.

Have you cherry picked the stash you have or pick randomly for your own builds?



~waldo
 #163443  by milobender
 Tue Nov 20, 2018 5:40 pm
I've got a big stash of J230 surplus pulls, I think. They've all got orange dots on the top, which I believe is a parameter designation, but what the parameters are, I haven't determined. I have been randomly picking from them for my builds and mod jobs, and haven't found a bad one yet. HOWEVER! Not ever being happy with not knowing what I'm doing, I just picked up a Peak DCA75 to test them with.

So when 'cherry picking', what parameters are you picking from? Is it more than gain?

The data sheet shows a spread of 1000 to 3500 for Gain (transconductance) and the rest, I've been reading/researching this afternoon, and have a ways to go. I'm slow, I have to start with understanding how the component actually works, as in the very interesting 'depletion zones' here, and work through how the parameters all interact physically.

The Peak is cool, it has a USB port and the ability to do dynamic curves "o) I tested 10 of the J230s reading Gains between 1.8mA/V and 2.2ma/V at 1kHz, which I take to be equivalent to 1800 and 2000 on the data sheet. That's at Id=0.9mA to 1.6mA (although I know that is current at the drain, I don't really understand yet)

I haven't measured the actual voltages under operating conditions on the Blaster yet, just got the DCA75 today "o)
 #163444  by waldo041
 Tue Nov 20, 2018 6:23 pm
milobender wrote:
Tue Nov 20, 2018 5:40 pm
I've got a big stash of J230 surplus pulls, I think. They've all got orange dots on the top, which I believe is a parameter designation, but what the parameters are, I haven't determined. I have been randomly picking from them for my builds and mod jobs, and haven't found a bad one yet. HOWEVER! Not ever being happy with not knowing what I'm doing, I just picked up a Peak DCA75 to test them with.

So when 'cherry picking', what parameters are you picking from? Is it more than gain?

The data sheet shows a spread of 1000 to 3500 for Gain (transconductance) and the rest, I've been reading/researching this afternoon, and have a ways to go. I'm slow, I have to start with understanding how the component actually works, as in the very interesting 'depletion zones' here, and work through how the parameters all interact physically.

The Peak is cool, it has a USB port and the ability to do dynamic curves "o) I tested 10 of the J230s reading Gains between 1.8mA/V and 2.2ma/V at 1kHz, which I take to be equivalent to 1800 and 2000 on the data sheet. That's at Id=0.9mA to 1.6mA (although I know that is current at the drain, I don't really understand yet)

I haven't measured the actual voltages under operating conditions on the Blaster yet, just got the DCA75 today "o)
I use a blaster Jig and match them as close as possible to my original wickersham e230 blaster.

The Orange Dot J230 lot were most likey a marker for a good piece.

E230 = J230 the dies used are the same just encased in different packages.

Wickersham and Alembic still make them, and I have been shown I was wrong,(again) they still do use the J230.

~waldo
Last edited by waldo041 on Tue Nov 20, 2018 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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