[Ethanlovesjazz]

Not the Q tron plus but the green logo


Please give me your favorite settings

[MattMan]

These are correct settings for emulating the mutron:

(Left to right): LP, UP, LO, 9:00, 9:00, ON.

Tweak the Gain if there's too little or too much overload.

Remember, axe volume up all the way, middle pup (or bridge if you don't have a middle), single coil. If you have hum, start with the Gain a little lower than 9:00.

[waldo041]

Change the attack resistor R32 to 68k for a slower response of the Opto.




~waldo

[PurpleTrails]

Hey Waldo, is that a good mod for a Qtron+ as well?

[MattMan]

Change the attack resistor R32 to 68k for a slower response of the Opto.



Love this mod. Using the Qtron regularly rather than my original MT III.


~waldo

[Jedstein]

Shoot -- it looks like the pic that Waldo posted with the inside of the board got deleted thanks to photobucket's new policy. I've been meaning to do Waldo's mod on this for months. I was actually really hoping that the new tru-tron would come out, but I think it's time to stop holding my breath on that one. Matt/Waldo -- is the board inside the q-tron decently labeled? Anyway to re-post the diagram (which I now wish I printed!)? Sorry for the hassle . . .

[MattMan]

Shoot -- it looks like the pic that Waldo posted with the inside of the board got deleted thanks to photobucket's new policy. I've been meaning to do Waldo's mod on this for months. I was actually really hoping that the new tru-tron would come out, but I think it's time to stop holding my breath on that one. Matt/Waldo -- is the board inside the q-tron decently labeled? Anyway to re-post the diagram (which I now wish I printed!)? Sorry for the hassle . . .

Looks like I do not have an archive of the image, but the board is clearly labeled and its very easy to mod. Start by ordering a few 68Kohms metal film resistors (1 watt, 5%) from Mouser electronics (they're terribly expensive--$0.19 each). Then replace the resistor at R32 with the new 68k resistor. That's all there is to it. The board actually has labels one of which is R32. If you can't find it, post a pic of your board once you get in there and I"ll point it out. BTW, AFAIK, this is just for the Silver Box Qtron.

[Jedstein]

Shoot -- it looks like the pic that Waldo posted with the inside of the board got deleted thanks to photobucket's new policy. I've been meaning to do Waldo's mod on this for months. I was actually really hoping that the new tru-tron would come out, but I think it's time to stop holding my breath on that one. Matt/Waldo -- is the board inside the q-tron decently labeled? Anyway to re-post the diagram (which I now wish I printed!)? Sorry for the hassle . . .

Looks like I do not have an archive of the image, but the board is clearly labeled and its very easy to mod. Start by ordering a few 68Kohms metal film resistors (1 watt, 5%) from Mouser electronics (they're terribly expensive--$0.19 each). Then replace the resistor at R32 with the new 68k resistor. That's all there is to it. The board actually has labels one of which is R32. If you can't find it, post a pic of your board once you get in there and I"ll point it out. BTW, AFAIK, this is just for the Silver Box Qtron.

Thanks, Matt!

[WokeUpDead]

Shoot -- it looks like the pic that Waldo posted with the inside of the board got deleted thanks to photobucket's new policy. I've been meaning to do Waldo's mod on this for months. I was actually really hoping that the new tru-tron would come out, but I think it's time to stop holding my breath on that one. Matt/Waldo -- is the board inside the q-tron decently labeled? Anyway to re-post the diagram (which I now wish I printed!)? Sorry for the hassle . . .

Looks like I do not have an archive of the image, but the board is clearly labeled and its very easy to mod. Start by ordering a few 68Kohms metal film resistors (1 watt, 5%) from Mouser electronics (they're terribly expensive--$0.19 each). Then replace the resistor at R32 with the new 68k resistor. That's all there is to it. The board actually has labels one of which is R32. If you can't find it, post a pic of your board once you get in there and I"ll point it out. BTW, AFAIK, this is just for the Silver Box Qtron.

Just want to be sure this is what is needed for that mod.

https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/vi ... HZzYAGk%3D

[MattMan]

yup! Good luck. Just love that silver box with the mod. Adjust the gain so just the subtlest of picking opens the filter, pick very lightly like Jerry and you'll get that sick Jerry mu tone. Sounds just as good as my $500 mutron iii.

[WokeUpDead]

yup! Good luck. Just love that silver box with the mod. Adjust the gain so just the subtlest of picking opens the filter, pick very lightly like Jerry and you'll get that sick Jerry mu tone. Sounds just as good as my $500 mutron iii.

Awesome. This looks like an easy tweak I can handle.

[franklins_timmy]

Since this popped back up. @MattMan in the post above where you have the settings listed. When you say ON are you talking about having it set to Boost instead of Norm?

[MattMan]

Yup, boost. The trick is very light picking. I used to pick too hard and the envelope filter was ok, but once I learned how to pick very lightly, my ef response was much better. Takes a lot of practice. Good luck.

[franklins_timmy]

Thanks @MattMan, much appreciated. I have been running it pretty similar... gain and peak set a little lower and set to Norm. Going to give these settings a try.

[franklins_timmy]

So instead of starting a new thread... my q-tron is acting up. I think most on here agree the old big box sounds better than the newer ones. Why is that, what is different about them? Asking because that may be the route I have to go because mine has been acting up off and on for a while. Also is there somewhere/someone that works on them and keeps it original? Afraid if something needs to be fixed/replaced different/newer components will make it sound different. Thanks